WEEK 5

R & R IN VAVA'U

I cannot see the point in going on holiday and flattening yourself out with doing stuff like there is no likelihood of a tomorrow.

This is where I really draw the line between hardcore "travelling" and taking vacation.

So with consecutive days of indifferent weather this week in Vava'u, there has been no excuse for not resting up and I have been quite happy to do so. Even with clearer weather the final 2 days, I've just taken it easy.

My hosts at Port Wine have eagerly assisted my sloth by providing a fertile aestheitc within the quiet, breezy grounds of their modest quarters.

The single exception to all this was Thursday afternoon as I set out to conquer the might of nearby Mount Talau. Towering all of 131 metres above Neiafu and the Port of Refuge, Mount Talau can be reached by a concentrated upwards stroll through some western back villages, eventually linking with the muddy tracks that lead into the National Park and up the side of the mountain.

The final section of the track is rope assisted and despite some slippery sections, it was much closer to a child's birthday party in comparison to my Fangatave Caves trek some 3 weeks previously.

Views on offer from the top are impressive and it is also possible to hike around to the western side for a more intimate sunset experience at the appropriate time of evening.

On top of Talau

When not scaling Tonga's natural monoliths, my little routine has involved lots of reading and sleeping and the odd computer game during the day and hitting the town at night.

Neiafu is blessed with some fine culinary establishments and pretty much all have either water frontage or blue ribbon views, so why not sample some offerings?

"Mango", "Mermaids" and "The Dancing Rooster" have all been granted a generous quota of my time and travel funds and I may still miss out on "Aquarium", "Ciao", "Compass Rose" and "Tongan Bob's".

"The Dancing Rooster" has my endorsement for food honours - the Swiss chef Gunther has surely established Tonga's most original and appetising menu in the Palangi food stakes.

Baked Mahimahi fillet in some exotic Coconutty, Bananary, Ginger-type tropical sauce (rice and salad inclusive) has my vote for feed of the week so far, despite a serious challenge from the homemade dumplings of lobster tortellini and lashings of brandy sauce earlier this evening

"Mermaids" however is my choice for an after dinner ale or 2 and a cosy place to get down and a little incestuous with the travelling scene of Neiafu.

A rare oppotunity for this notorious loner to get in touch with his inner social butterfly and I admit to the experience being quite refreshing.

Smatterings of worldly ex-pat locals of a nautical bent, international volunteers , US Peace Corps workers, local Tongans and Palangi travellers create the evening dynamic around the "Mermaids" bar and grill.

Heavy conditions sadly, have offered stifled sunsets for most evenings this week but there may be no better place to be when it is all working.....

Lucky serves up another Ikale @ Mermaids

THE FINAL FLIGHT

My time in Tonga has now come to an end and my flight to Sydney is scheduled for today, Monday 2 February.

I have been resting for the past 48 hours in Tongatapu after returning from Vava'u on Saturday.

Toni's Guest House has once more granted me sleeping space for the final 2 evenings, as I have caught up with puppy news, cracked a few more coconuts, lounged about in front of the movie channel and also attended my final church service this time around.

A 2-hour Sunday morning marathon was in order and yet another fine round of singing as the locals gathered in numbers for what I believe was a Catholic service.

Catholic Falelotu - Tofoa village

The Tongan church experience has surely been one of my fondest memories of the Kingdom.

Not that I have converted to some denomination or other or even that I have decided to believe in God.

It is just such a nice experience to share in this level of spirituality with a people to whom this has such great importance.

The singing is fantastical of a truly world-class calibre and there is something of great relevance and cultural permanence in the way that the Tongans embrace their faith as one.

Admittedly, religious diversity is not really of the agenda but the numerous denominations do seem to co-exist in remarkable harmony and this is not necessarily a given either here or in other parts of the world.

Post service, a lovely fellow by the name of George greeted me warmly and in appreciatiation of my presence offered me a ride back home in his SUV in lieu of a 15-minute hike in the midday heat.

Rumbling back to Toni's along the deeply potholed sinuses that are the backblock warrens of Tofoa village was a new experience for George, who told me he had never seen this part of town before, in all his years.

As we bounced along, George was palpably curious as to why a lonesome Palangi like me should be in church on Sunday and voiced his approval as I revealed details of my month-long Tongan expedition. He was equally curious to know the nature of my faith and short of lying, I announced that I wasn't really anything.

"So long as you believe in the Lord Jesus Christ", George added, his sense of excitement barely stopped short of infecting me.

Of course, I was deeply appreciative of the lift and equally glad to have provided an old man with a new experience.

Malo aupito George.

Flying Pacific Blue

Farewell to the Kingdom

WEEK 4

UOLEVA PT.2

Mosquitoes bite frequently and hard on Uoleva.

The degree of pain is somehow greater than elsewhere in the Kingdom, in addition to stock standard risks of contractible nasties such as Dengue Fever and Malaria.

With my personal collection of Tongan mozzie attacks now hundred-numbering, I am yet to be stricken by anything worse than a case of the metaphorical shits, although one should never become too far ahead of oneself…..

A circumnavigation of Uoleva is an expedition of 2-hours minimum duration, or else one can take several days if it pleases one to do so.

On a hot and glaring Thursday morning last, I lacquered on a rather large quantity of sunscreen and set out for however long it was to take.

I elected to venture clockwise – tailing the sun if you will, in lieu of having it follow me for the entire round trip.

By doing it this way, there was also to be an advantageous windward-side breeze as I made my way around.

Palangi on the beach

An hour or so along, the calm, lapping waters and smooth golden sands of the leeward side are replaced with roaring surf and glaring white sands of the windward coast.

The northern-most tip of Uoleva is the narrowest of points and not only functions as a island turnaround but also a meeting place of sorts, as travellers either depart or arrive from the shallow 2 km tidal crossing between Uoleva and Lifuka.

Tongans and Palangi alike make the trip by foot, or often enough on horseback which also saves a 50 Pa’anga (US$25) round trip by boat.

A gusting tailwind shoved me along the beach for most of the 5 km southbound tramp as I regularly paused for gulps of water and a sunscreen boost as the UV index metered way beyond extreme.

Reflective glare inflicts as much if not even greater damage than that from directly above, so I felt it necessary to cover all my undersides in addition, from the double-barrel assault of bleached white sand and the blindingly incandescent water which I can only relate as the most intense hue of translucent turquoise.

Seaside artefact

3½ hours hence, I rounded the southern most point and the familiar western beach strip curved out before me, a strongish sou-westerly also carrying with it an ever-welcome scent of cooking food.

I’ve said it before, but timing is everything and it seems my arrival could not have been better timed to join in the lunch break at fledgling “Serenity Bay Resort”.

Patti and helper had knocked up a right royal Palangi feast of chicken curry for not only themselves and the working throng of Tongan boys but as it also now happened, myself.

“Serenity Bay” is set to be the 3rd accommodation option on Uoleva Island.

Patti’s plan of attack is not so much to compete with the other established budget icons on the island – Captain Cook’s and Daiana’s, but offer tourists more of a spiritual treat in tropical paradise, without blowing budgets to the moon and beyond.

From what I have seen, it has the potential to be a very enticing and rewarding place - if she does it right from here, Patti will have done a marvellous job in creating and selling her unique dream.

A small scattering of custom built Balinese fales populate the jungle patch from one side of the narrow island to other - either for singles, or the more romantic doubles, which face onto the windward-side sunrise beach.

The centrally located “Bounty Bar” fale is the main cooking, drinking and socialising nest, directly overlooking the calmer leeward sunset beach.

Leeward vista - Serenity Bay

An adjacent Tongan fale is the designated massage tent, where Patti will soothe the pain after action packed high-season days of whale-watching, scuba diving, snorkelling or just general amounts of beachcombing.

Feng Shui has been afforded the highest of offices at “Serenity Bay” and it deserves to achieve a special place in the itineraries of South Pacific travellers in the years ahead.

VIVA VAVA’U

There would have been little to prevent me burning another week in the untouchable Shangri-La of Uoleva; however a Friday morning return to Lifuka had to be for my lunchtime flight to Vava’u on Saturday.

Having already paid my way, Langi Langi happily welcomed me back to her fold in Pangai for another 24 hours as the final section of my Tongan sabbatical approached.

The Vava’u archipelago lies 100+ km and a 20-minute flight north of Ha’apai.

Neiafu is the commercial centre of Vava’u and is arguably tourist central in the Kingdom of Tonga.

And history will now dictate that a couple of recent fires have fundamentally altered the townscape of Neiafu.

The latest, dated 17 December 2008 was started by some young boys burning out a beehive in the midst of a windy summer day - not only were the bees accounted for, but half-a-dozen or so local businesses that also happened to be spiritual icons of the town.

The charred and razed skeletons of what once was pre-empt what are now clear and unobstructed views of Port of Refuge and the town jetty.

Neiafu new town vista

When it’s not on fire, watersport-centric activities regularly abound in Vava’u and it is absolutely my preference to be here in the low-season.

Not only would high-season crowds cripple my spirits but harshly spiked prices would be even more effective in diverting my energies and travel funds elsewhere.

Whale-watching is the #1 drawcard during the good days and at all other times, it is a must-stop for nautical types as they chart their expansive (and often expensive) adventures through the South Pacific and beyond.

Many have stopped and stayed over the years – if not marrying directly into the local population, unhesitatingly nominating Vava’u as their place in the sun.

The hilly topography of Vava’u is quite obviously different from anywhere else in the Kingdom (‘Eua excepted) with myriad waterways and various island groups making it a haven for plain sailing and other watery fun.

I am yet to register a snorkelling session of any quality on this particular trip and despite my days in Tonga now counting down quite rapidly, my hope has not exasperated.

For the time being though, I am lodging at the Austongian “Port Wine Guest House” run by Aussie ex-pats Maryanne, her husband Tai, their Melbourne-raised kids and some 4 generations of Tai’s extended Tongan family.

Relaxing and not doing very much are currently driving my agenda more than anything else.

There was however, the side-show of a post-church home cooked Sunday lobster feast yesterday and yet another lined up for Wednesday.

Port Wine's R-rated cooktop

After Church

MY FIRST EARTHQUAKE + A LITTLE MORE WIND AND RAIN…..

Tuesday evening: A 1000 millibar tropical depression around 200 miles northwest of Vava’u rang out official cyclone warnings across radio and VHF channels around the nation at 6 pm.

Those in the know usually reserve full blown panic for when things drop below 1000 and with forecast wind speeds between 35 and 45 knots, it was more than likely just another storm.

Still, the locals take no chances and there is a certain protocol to be regarded.

Windows are boarded and anything that should be tied down or removed from the danger zone is.

Just in case.

The excitement of my first potential cyclone was not to be trumped however, by my first real earthquake at around 1 am Monday morning.

Truth be told, it was no more than a couple of short, sharp quivers but when the room shakes like this I wasn’t about to be dreaming it…..

AUSTRALIA DAY, POST-CYCLONE & JUST ANOTHER FEAST…..

Waking on Wednesday morning, it was difficult to figure out what all the fuss was about.

The tropical cyclone warning was no more than just that and a little extra wind and rain aside there really was nothing to it.

Still, things can be worse and it is often prudent to be grateful for odd mercies as they occur.

As is the Tongan way, there may be no better way to celebrate such a non-event than throwing on another Feast.

A Feast with some backyard cricket added in for tidy measure, also as something of a belated shindig for Australia Day.

January 26 is the designated national day of Australia and something I am normally loathed to acknowledge.

Gatherings around the continent summon Nationalistic fervour and flag waving of disturbing frequency as tuneless and stale anthems are limply regurgitated by well meaning folk with the absolute best intentions in their hearts.

This of course, accompanied by thousand-fold barbeques, sausage sizzles, spontaneous games of cricket (beach, backyard and otherwise) and random piss-ups as the majority strive to squeeze maximum advantage from the national summer holiday in the best way they know how.

To be fair, I think it is important for countries to celebrate a national day in some way or other – it just doesn’t mean I personally sanction what is basically another excuse to drink beer in the hot sun and start proclaiming loudly and often that Australia is the greatest country in the world.

To be even fairer, the best possible place to be for any Australia Day carry-on is overseas and that is where I am right now.

The more truthful reason for today’s January 28 Feast is to farewell a Port Wine resident Aussie Palangi named Stephen – a mute fellow and good friend of my hosts, who leaves Vava’u tomorrow and is returning to Australia next Monday on the same flight as myself.

Stephen himself controlled the late afternoon barbeque – slow cooking chicken, sausages and Sipi (the greatly maligned Tongan delicacy also known as mutton flaps) to a high degree of perfection.

Beer and wine flowed amongst the grown-ups as the kids took care of the cricket.

Howzat....

Palangi Steve & grinning Tai

Taro, kumara, ‘Ota Ika (raw fish salad), rice, pasta and fish cakes were to accompany anything that came off the Barbie, with the evening’s final contribution from local legend Sione, who presented like a rock star with his own star attraction – freshly tendered Puaaka (spit-roasted suckling pig).

Now, I would never regularly lay claim to pork extraction of any kind but these are exceptional circumstances.

The fresh porker is a Tongan delicacy of royal proportions, most often straight out of the yard or back paddock and no more recently than same afternoon.

Contrary to local custom, I personally stop short of chowing down the bones, the salt-laden crackers and other cartlidge or fat-based morsels.

Instead, my way is to savour the tender flesh, whilst saving my fix of entertainment by watching the locals crunch down everything else on offer…..

WEEK 3

TONI’S TOUR

Tonga’s accommodation options are a little lopsided.

The top end of the market is poor value, particularly around Nuku’alofa, where most of the hotels (including those that survived the town riots in 2006) are ramshackled enough not to seriously bother.

Mid-range options in Tonga are generally the best ones, for which you are paying a little more, but receiving acceptable quality in return.

Budget standards don’t rate so highly throughout the Kingdom and this is where Toni’s Guest House steps in.

Toni’s is something of an institution in Nuku’alofa for this very reason – he offers extremely liveable quarters and mostly for under $30 per night.

Toni the man is a ruddy, thickly accented and at times bellicose 60-something Englishman from Lancashire who has been running his show in Nuku’alofa for the past 18 years.

Along with the officious bedside manner comes his long-suffering Tongan bride Leni, who co-runs proceedings with the man himself.

It is a surprisingly solid ship and despite the constant niggle, Toni’s $40 full-island Tongatapu tours are as much a part of a visit to Tonga as staying at his fine establishment.

Once weekly Kava nights are also on the roster upon demand but it’s really the tour I came for.

Interest began building around a day-long Friday tour so I slotted myself in with a couple of Germans and another in order to make-up the 4 person minimum required.

By departure Friday 10 am, extra blow-ins had packed the van out to 8, engendering no further complaints from the guide.

It is an anti-clockwise affair, heading west out of town to a running commentary from Toni, as he espouses his knowledge of Tongan agricultural practises as well as the various Christian churches of all denominations.

Catholic, Free-Wesleyan, Seventh-Day Adventist, Jehovah’s Witness all have substantial representation throughout the Kingdom, but none are set to compete in any way with the Mormon juggernaut which is all but set to take over Tonga completely.

The Mormons have serious finances out of the U.S and are overseeing the construction of multi-million dollar establishments in all parts of Tongatapu.

Brand spanking new temples, churches and schools are springing up virtually by the month and it is difficult not to suppose that religious domination may be a clear objective.

I guess there are worse things in an absolute sense that could be attracting such a heavy weighting of foreign investment – drug cartels for instance – so it should be all well and good for the Tongans to live their lives in this way, if they so choose…..

(Brand new) Mormon temple

Lunch (and a swim for those not eating) was on offer at the Likualofa tourist resort on Tongatapu’s north-western coastal fringe.

Not having consumed since the previous evening, I opted for the former to see me through the remainder of the day.

The afternoon session was an exploration of Tongatapu’s southern blowholes, a quick look at the (recently deceased) King’s former coastal residence, swimming at ‘Oholei Beach (see Week 1 blog entry) and finally Tonga’s extremely underwhelming and tragically neglected archaeological monuments.

The beach kids

Pretty arachnid

The Maui Trilithon is supposedly rated as another Stonehenge but I fail to understand this completely.

It is nothing but a couple of large rocks in an overgrown swamp, surrounded by the lonely tents of a handful of craft vendors who voraciously attend to the even fewer visitors that happen to pass on by.
Perhaps I am being a little disdainful towards history here, but it is decidedly unimpressive.

If this wasn’t bad enough, worse lay ahead with the woe-be-gone Lapaha Archaeological site, which is not even open to the public any longer.

The main burial sites are padlocked behind chicken wire and have been so for the past 2 years or more - they are so overgrown and forgotten that it is simply not even worth a tourist snap.

Tiki vendor - Maui Trilithon

I was glad enough to move beyond these cultural disasters and at least the final 10 km run back into Nuku’alofa was as action packed and culturally relevant as any other section of the tour.

Despite its depressing main attraction, the Lapaha precinct is a fine representative microcosm of Tongan existence – fringeing the south eastern shore of Tongatapu’s central Fanga’Uta Lagoon, the locals hit the water in numbers at dusk, trawling for the weekend’s sustenance by any means at their disposal.

This particular afternoon also happened to be “celebrating” a funeral, with those not out in the water milling about town in their traditional black and grass skirts – various wakes and gatherings in yards from one end of town to another.

Perhaps the most intriguing activity however was the sight of a well-positioned police radar on the main road out of Nuku’alofa, gunning the rush hour barrage as they hoon back to the plantation, sometimes at speeds approaching 50 km/h - big trouble of course when the speed limit is only 40 km/h in this part of town.

The devious coppers apparently nab a considerable quota of the law-breaking locals – all things being fair would also see most of the cars permanently defected as they receive their speeding fines, but in reality, there simply may not be enough man hours or police at hand to impound 95% of the cars in Tonga…..

HINA CAVE #2

A Friday night dinner show was mooted amongst the tourists – either Likualofa Resort or Hina Cave at ‘Oholei Beach were the choices on offer.

I needed no persuasion to cast my vote and my word of influence around the group seemed to work.

So off to Hina Cave it was.

HA’APAI OR NOT SO HA’APAI?

It was a 30 minute Saturday morning flight to the Ha’apai archipelago, close on 200 km north of the main island Tongatapu.

My Ha’apai gameplan was yet to materialise and nothing was any more certain once on the ground.

Planes take off and land on the island of Lifuka – Pangai is the not so buzzing main metropolis of Lifuka - a town with a few hundred inhabitants; a dozen or so shops; a port; a high school; a hospital; at least 6 churches; half-a-dozen or so places to stay; 3 internet cafes; a restaurant and no running water.

The Ha’apai airport transfer system basically involves bumming a lift into town with one of the locals – unless one happens to arrive on a day when the town cab has petrol in it.

I had blindly nominated the home of Langi Langi as my accommodation of choice, so this was at least a start.

My driver dispatched me in good time and on arrival, Langi Langi herself led me upstairs to my very basic digs, with an invitation to make myself at home.

Flying to Ha'apai

Langi Langi's grandkids

Lifuka sundown

The boys of Pangai

SATURDAY, SUNDAY & MONDAY IN TONGA #3

Probably by about Monday evening, I had figured out what to do next.

Whether it was 3 days of sitting about doing not very much or an incredible feat of meticulous planning (governed mainly by a island-time transport infrastructure bordering on dysfunction), I managed to somehow get it together.

As close as I was to packing it in and heading directly back to Tongatapu, the Universe was having none of it at a progressive agenda was evolving.

My next onward journey was set to be another Saturday flight, this time to the Va’va’u archipelago, but not before a 2-day sojourn to the nearby paradise of Uoleva.

Incidentally, I had also made a point of voluntarily attending church again on Sunday as well as at 4.30 am Monday morning, though there was little say in this one.

Perhaps I have previously been out of the firing line, but it is the common practise throughout Tonga for dawn services on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings.

Bells ring, drums thump, choirs lift the roof and this doesn’t even account for the roosters and town dogs who join in the chorus at maximum tilt.

Praise to the Lord.

UOLEVA

Uoleva is a small and uninhabited island immediately south of Lifuka, around 40 minutes by a tiny timber boat.

There are 2½ places of accommodation on Uoleva and nothing else – the 2 established are both budget-wise options and it was to be my choice of "Captain Cook’s" for both Wednesday and Thursday.

The 3rd establishment is the yet to be completed and officially yet to be named “Serenity Bay Resort” soon-to-be run by the Hawai’ian ex-pat Patti and her Tongan boy, Sammi - but more on this later.

"Captain Cook’s" is a sandy collection of beach huts on the exquisite and isolated western shoreline of Uoleva.

Very primitive in its essence and functioning, $50 Tongan Pa’anga per day (US$25) buys a roof over one’s head and some top shelf Tongan chow from the manager-in-residence, Mele (a.k.a Maria).

For those wanting to party, it should be recommended to stay at home – with no power and limited running water, it is more the place to get back to basics and live like a savage for at least a little while.

As the only Palangi anywhere in sight, I have to admit being right in my element these past few days.

Conversely, high-season sees Uoleva swamped by the bargain-budget tourist set for weeks on end as it is one of the blue ribbon whale-watching destinations of the South Pacific – there are a few throughout Tonga and this is definitely one of them.

Diving, snorkelling, fishing, swimming are all more than acceptable things to do in addition to general beach-bumming, snoozing in a hammock or sitting around reading an odd book in the sun.

Whatever, one must arrive with an empty plan and allow time and space to take care of the details.

Trying to force the issue out here doesn’t really work so well.

Leaving for Uoleva

WEEK 2

THEN CAME WIND AND RAIN…..

The hoopla of Thursday’s wedding was readily dampened – blown and washed away really – by 72 hours of weather induced by a deep barometric depression throughout the region of the Kingdom.

No one was using the “C” word, however there was wind aplenty to cause an amount of localised damage and rain enough to more than likely keep Australia drought-free for the next couple of years.

My activities over Friday and Saturday were consigned to some computer-based entertainment and a measure of good reading.

SUNDAY IN TONGA #2

The local forecasts had the bottom of the bad weather blowing south by Sunday.

Signs of clear skies and a near-full moon Saturday evening lent more promise than ever to Sunday’s prospects.

Come the morn, it was not quite to be with another quiver of gusty rainstorms doing their worst.

Plan B was Church because you can do this no matter what the weather girl says.

All village churches in ‘Eua were open for business as I rode a lift with Taki into town and set down for some fire, brimstone and a load of heavenly singing.

This particular choir I found to be somewhat top-heavy, insofar as double the number of female to male members created more of a high-end sound from the female upper registers, although fine, fine singing nonetheless.

Singing is such a powerful cultural experience in Tonga and throughout the South Pacific region.

I would suggest that many professional choirs elsewhere in the world would be shadowed by the sheer power and sound that these people are capable of.

Along with their Christian faith, these cornerstones of Tongan culture come to life each Sunday in the most natural and extraordinary of ways – it is a rare privilege to experience it and the Tongans are most proud to share it with the rare visitor that is interested in participating.

‘EUA NATIONAL PARK

By Church’s end, it may just have been the last of the rain.

A quick run back to base and with sunlight looking to bathe the immediate future, there was not a moment to waste.

Clothes changed and pack packed, I was away despite weather to the near north looking likely to do anything.

A 2 km stroll along the coral scattered western beach strip and a terminus at the town jetty later, I tacked uphill towards the east and followed the signage that would eventually lead me to ‘Eua National Park.

It was heavy going - intense humidity working itself against me like an atmospheric treadmill – up the hill I went and my shirt was altering colour and texture more rapidly than I could have waged.

Still, the scenery was splendid as I waved to many a passing local either on foot or on the back of a cruising lorry.

I even gained a guide nearby the village of Pangai, as a local woman opted to walk and talk a small distance with me along my way, despite the protestations of her infant son as she disappeared down the road with this strange “Palangi”.

(“Palangi” is the Tongan expression for a white person – I don’t believe it to be impudence – more of a jest, as young children yell out “Palangi!!” as you stride on past….)

Falelotu (Church) on the hill

My guide released me soon enough with adequate directions and a sincere warning to take high care on the slippery paths I was likely to encounter within the National Park.

Caves and deep sinkholes abound in the confines of ‘Eua National Park and the warning I received was not simply a mild matter of courtesy.

Even in good conditions, things can be treacherous, so after 3 days of sub-cyclonic weather, it was not a time for flippancy.

My plan of attack was as good as my map, the distance to be covered (including the afternoon’s return walk) and the more obvious contingency of wet and boggy tracks.

This wasn’t even accounting for the constant cups of sweat that were more likely than ever to pour out of me as I plunged deeper into the heart of the rainforest.

The tracks certainly didn’t disappoint as I veered left off the main road and onto the largely inundated 4-wheel-drive ruts that were to lead me to the Holy Grail.

300 metres along the way I took my first ankle-deep mud plunge – numerous more were to follow but back to the subject.

Hapa Pools, Heke Stream and “Big ‘Ovava” were the 3 main targets it had to be decided.

This would occupy me for a round trip in the National Park of vaguely 5 km, which in poor conditions was plenty.

At certain points the track forked, with no particular counsel as to which direction to take.

My best guide at such times was the sound of running water, which if I were to be aiming for “pools” and a “stream” seemed to make perfect sense.

And so it happened, my little plan worked and a gush soon became a torrent as the Hapa Pool appeared before me.

My fantasy of taking a cooling naked dip in the midst of this lush rainforest was quickly annulled – the “pool” being not more than a smallish basin of filthy stormwater runoff.

Time for a rest and drink at least and working a plot for the next section.

Heke Stream and Big ‘Ovava were close by and easily within 15 minutes if maps were accurate.

The track worsened again as I inched across the lichen covered causeway that contains Hapa Pool.

Uphill and ever softening, there was nothing to be gained by proceeding along this path much farther.

A relief it was as the “Big ‘Ovava” jumped into my periphery at just the right moment.

“Big ‘Ovava” is a gigantic and prehistoric banyan tree – hundreds and likely thousands of years old – several exist within ‘Eua National Park.

This old beast is rooted deep within a massive sinkhole that leads into a 40 million year old cave – probably one of the oldest in the South Pacific.

Geologists and botanists from afar have been attracted to these important sites and probably with good reason.

As risky as it was, I climbed or rather slid my way to the base of the giant banyan.

This was not only the best vantage of the sinkhole and cave but also of the incredible root system of the tree.

Covered from head to foot in mud, sweat and glory it sure felt good to be alive down there.

The adventure had briefly overtaken me and it was mission accomplished for the moment.

Big 'Ovava

The return trip at least afforded me the advantage of knowing where I was likely to end up ankle deep in thick slush, so I largely averted this.

Winding my way more directly back down the hill in the deepening afternoon, onto what was no better than a 3 km goat track, but at least with the gentle assistance of some kindly locals.

One young lad in particular followed me along for about a kilometre to ensure I was correctly heading back “to sea”.

I arrived back down “at sea” a little further south than planned, then having to drag my tired and muddy legs a little farther through the thick coastal scrub and onto the even more demanding loose and corally sand.

High tide relegated me to stripping down and wading up to another kilometre in waist deep water, trying not to slice my feet clean up on the equally corally basin.

Rounding the second nearest point, my adventure was almost over, as I came upon the familiar Tufuvai Beach.

My fading body longed the crystal blue waters but I at least took a moment to de-robe appropriately before the plunge.

Tufuvai swell

PARADISE IS HERE

Once upon a time, I am trying to imagine that the whole of Planet Earth was like ‘Eua’s eastern ridge.

It probably wasn’t because there were always deserts and mountains and rivers and various other miracles of wonder.

Fast forward to 2009 A.D however and all I can imagine is that ‘Eua is a microcosm of what has been lost.

Monday was my day to explore the eastern extremity of the National Park, the designated Lauua and Lokopu lookouts.

The rain was back, though it wasn’t as if the tracks had dried out from the last lot.

I was afforded a drop off from Hideaway staff well into the park, where the trudge commenced at the MAF nursery junction.

The first 2 km of Rooney Rd led directly uphill into increasingly heavy rain which did at least have a cooling effect.

Rooney Rd at some point converted to an onwards track named Lote Rd - 50 metres of this determined nothing greater than a narrow, overgrown quagmire, so Plan B it was.

A right turn was the only real option here, which was clearly a better track although where it led was plain guesswork, particularly without a map.

My vague but determined plan today was to attend these lookouts if per chance I was able to locate them.

As the path (still in fair condition) continually veered away from the direction I knew I needed to be taking, my dreams were fading just gradually.

Now in full bushman mode, I decided to jump on the next left and follow it to wherever it may lead.

This track was also good as it led through some thick, cooling plantation forest to somewhere at the very least.

A kilometre or so of this proceeded towards another overgrown clearing, but now more importantly, some relevant signage.

To the left: Lokopu Lookout 100m.

To the right: Lauua Lookout 500m.

I temporarily subdued my glee as I hooked right and I had to be nearly there.

The subsequent lookout directions bend the track left, disappearing all and everything deep into the rainforest – a damp and mysterious light permanently surrounds all that survives within.

A constructed timber platform then comes into view, the only evidence of human activity anywhere, as glaring slivers of sunlight force their way between the narrowest of gaps in the canopy.

My immediate shock of nearly slipping like a bar of soap on the lower steps of the platform, was long made redundant as I stepped up proper onto the platform and another world of ancient bygone eras now lay over 300 metres beneath me.

This platform literally lurches out and over some of the most magnificent, unspoiled virgin rainforest and coastline surely anywhere in the world.

Birds of paradise glide effortlessly above the canopy day in and out and I cannot be anything but envious of the quality of their existence.

I am notoriously difficult please, but this is just awesome.

The dramatic positioning of the platform absolutely enhances the experience – it is the closest one may ever be to feeling like God in heaven.

My only concern was the layers of low cloud, clinging to the upper reaches of the ridge like a persistent rash, bringing with it bursts of drizzle and a cold wind.

Lauua Lookout

The minor discomfort was totally worth it, although my discontent about the mist was confirmed as I made way around to the equally other-worldly Lokopu lookout.

My initial glimpses of the splendour were quickly thwarted as the cloud really started rolling in.

A complete white-out was imminent and despite hanging about some, I had to take the gas and realise that this was it.

I continued a satisfied young man, sludging my way through at least another hours’ worth of forest and eventually out the other side.

By the time I reached the village of Ha’atu’a, I might as well have had a lift waiting for me, as a local picked me up and on we drove.

He was a friendly fellow with only a select collection of English vocabulary managing to at least find out where I was “living” and “which is my island”, before running out of petrol about 2 km down the way.

I was back on the goat track soon enough and straight down “to sea” for another well earned bathe at Tufuvai.

FANGATAVE CAVES

After an action-packed and largely memorable week, Tuesday arrived as my final day on ‘Eua and the activity of choice was the guided walk of the Fangatave Caves and a visit to its eponymously named beach.

19-year-old Sefo was my guide for the day and away we went.

Hideaway staffer Lema delivered us 15 km’s along more flooded goat tracks and through ‘Eua’s only northern village, Houma.

The track continues out the northern end of Houma and immediately through the middle of the Queen of Tonga’s personal pine and coffee plantation - something to tell the grandkids this one…..

Only a short stretch of overgrown former pumpkin plantation then lies between the Queen’s stuff and our drop-off point for the caves.

Some semi-steep and largely grass-covered switchbacks lead immediately downward, via Kahana Spring - the New Zealand-sponsored water supply for the village of Houma.

A short burst of plantation forest leads out onto yet another 300 metre-plus ridge, directly overlooking the superb Fangatave Beach.

The King’s cows commonly graze on this strip of real estate and it has not been uncommon for some to disappear over the edge.

Sefo tells the tale of a young calf plopping over on one of his tours and freefalling into the rainforest below.

Fangatave vista

The limestone ridge is sheer and dramatic – millions of years old and divoted with huge holes of erosion that appear as though some pre-historic mammoth has emerged from the sea, removing massive chunks for dinner as he or she has seen fit.

I was soon to learn however that ogling these dramatic vistas was but the easy part of today’s action.

Relative humidity was already closer to 100 than 50 and we were on a mission to the Caves.

Lakufa'anga cliff

Sefo led the way as we began to drop, close to the ridge’s northernmost point and I was now in little doubt as to the degree of difficulty and treachery that lay ahead.

The track down to the caves is very steep and exceptionally dangerous in many parts.

Sharp limestone gnashes from every direction and with conditions of the rainforest being inherently moist and slippery, it is no place for the insipid.

A heavy slip could easily result in death, or at very least a life-changing injury along this path - even in good conditions and with so much wet weather in preceding days, a track of maximum slipperiness was ours to be enjoyed.

Fortunately (or unfortunately), my guide Sefo, like most Tongans, has been climbing coconut trees from a very young age, so I committed myself not to be perturbed by his ability to seemingly glide across the worst of it, something like a monkey.

His patience and my extreme caution seemed to be working well for the time being.

A regular thought that established itself as I overcame one challenging and dangerous section after another was that there would be no way anyone would be allowed to take on this hike under controlled conditions in Australia.

It certainly wouldn’t stop people trying, however it highlighted to me a possible advantage of Australia being such an over-regulated country.

Anyway, I was quickly learning why rock-climbing never really sold itself as activity I may be interested in embracing.

I have previously known people who have dreamed of meeting their end by falling off the largest rock imaginable but I can now confirm that this is seriously not something in my agenda.

I’m not good with heights; however the level of this climb is such that it is well possible that one could survive if something were to go wrong.

And it was this that was getting to me the most.

Over an hour later and some serious adrenalin moments later, we were down on glorious Fangatave Beach with Sefo up a coconut tree plucking some fresh green ones for lunch.

The young green ones are those full of juice; one simply cracks it open and drinks.

Mature brown coconuts can also be cracked but savoured more for the “meat” inside.

After my educational coconut respite, it was out for a quick snorkel on the near reef before a more detailed exploration of some of the caves we had passed through on the way down.

These are “growing” limestone caves – tens of millions of years old and still under formation at the base of ‘Eua’s sheer eastern cliffs.

Absolutely beautiful in their essence, but not accessible to the mainstream tourist crowd; they are to be experienced equally for the time and effort that it takes to get there.

I took the challenge and was well rewarded.

Sefo (guide) + sweatboy V - Fangatave caves

PRODIGAL PALANGI

I have returned to the capital Nuku’alofa for a few days of rest and preparation for the next section of the expedition.

Nuku’alofa I have recently heard referred to rather unkindly as “the armpit of Tonga”, however it is all in one’s perspective.

It is a place where there are supplies (even though somewhat limited) and some additional activities until my flight to the Ha’apai archipelago this Saturday.

Next report from here.

Slow boat from 'Eua

Too many puppies

WEEK 1 HIGHLIGHTS

HEILALA HOLIDAY LODGE

Tonga smells good. I’m taking a liking to it for other reasons as well, but for now the olfactory lure has engaged me beyond expectation.

Whether it be frangipani, hibiscus, coconut or else a general array or languid tropical aromas as punctuated frequently by the local highway barbeque shopfronts, my virgin impressions of the Kingdom already are indelibly influenced.

My fale (thatched hut) at Heilala Holiday Lodge is suitably appointed both inside and out for the money. The interior selection of mod-cons has proved more than adequate; a free upgrade from management in particular has hit the spot - hammock inclusive, no less.

A veritable botanical pharmacopeia of the tropics exists beyond my louvre slits – bananas hang in green 30-stong bunches over the veranda on one side and a mango tree for the ages on the other.

Also scattered throughout are coffee, shea butternut, guava, breadfruit, betel nut, papaya and most likely a sneaky one I am yet to find.

Host Sven and his Tongan bride Carolina serve up the pick of this goodness as breakfast for guests each morning and I just happen to be one of them for the moment……

Heliala Fale

NUKU’ALOFA

Nuku’alofa is the rusty, dusty Tongan capital – 20,000 something inhabitants and a 5-story skyscraper named the National Reserve Bank is the local champion of modernity.

It is also the largest commercial centre of the main island Tongatapu, so selecting itself as the starting point for my particular expedition.

As a city, the facts are that Nuku’alofa isn’t about to be short-listed in the world’s Top 100 – it would probably struggle to qualify in a Top 1000.

As a raw cultural experience however, it should be recommended as a place to celebrate.

Modern cities as they are continue to re-define themselves - multi-ethnic and culturally-diverse as never before and often at the expense of a singular cultural identity that may be forever lost, as the genetic pool mixes and re-mixes back on top of itself.

In the face of all this, Tonga’s cultural epicentre represents 2 main groups of people – Tongans and Tourists.

And even amongst the small tourist contingent are a number who have married into it, extending the Tongan family ever so gradually to other parts of the world.

Royal Palace

Coconut Slurping

Tongan ex-pats are the most common breed in the outside world, as there is a fundamental human need to survive, and many quite rightly acknowledge this need by leaving what is basically an economically poor country and seeking livelihoods in wealthier nearby nations.

Australia and New Zealand are obvious and popular choices here and given that both codes of rugby are but mere religion in both countries, multitudes of young Tongan men are in high demand for massive dollars and cult status as gun footballers.

Natural skill combined with physical bulk and athleticism seems to predispose the Tongans and many of their Polynesian brothers to the body impact sports of Rugby League and Rugby Union.

And so it should.

Tongans are a large people – probably some of the largest of the human race.

They can be intimidating to look at and their sheer mass puts any idea of a physical confrontation into the fire.

In fact, the general energy of island existence seems to define most of the locals as a gentle bunch.

Possible exceptions to the rule constitute the involvement of alcohol and activities on the footy field.

My typical nut-crusher handshakes towards the warrior males of the species have been all but flaccid in response.

Quite a strange phenomenon.

My main tourist activities to date have involved visiting the excellent Talamahu markets and the most cultural of experiences is a ride into town on a dilapidated 1970’s Toyota Cruiser – crammed in with 30-odd fat Tongans at 120% humidity and blaring R&B on the stereo provided.

Just don’t forget to drop the 70c fare in the tin as you leave…..

Talamahu Markets

175 Tongan islands lie scattered north and south of here, so the clear plan is to use Nuku’alofa’s ports (air and sea) as a hub for other adventures.

Exact timetables are yet to evolve beyond the next few days, which probably means I have some research to do, however I do expect to be gaining familiarity with at least a couple more of the main island groups in weeks ahead.

HINA CAVE

‘Oholei Beach

Friday evenings are the time to visit ‘Oholei Beach on Tongatapu’s eastern sunrise coast for a beautiful magical menu of music, drinking, eating and some fine traditional Tongan culture.

The Hina Cave is a natural limestone formation, carved into a 200 ft cliff face – a switchback bamboo staircase leads down the cliff to the beach and along a torch lined sand path towards the evenings’ entertainment.

A Hula band cranks the tunes – a well-paced compilation of reggae favourites and traditional Tongan love songs, which generally involve lots of stuff about mermaids and sweet damsels breaking the hearts of hardened warriors.

There is time enough before sunset for some Tongan Ikale ale or a buttery banana straight from the tree, at which time the host takes a break from the band to pray grace and welcome his guests to the Feast.

The Feast is pure Tongan hospitality.

Salad of greens, potatoes, seaweeds and other tuber vegetables such as kumara and taro provide the entrée, followed by the meats of choice – fish, chicken and not one, but two spitted pigs on this evening – completed by a dessert of watermelon and coconut bread pudding.

Unfortunately, on this occasion the quantity of the Feast was not quite enough, despite many reassurances of otherwise. Amidst what was a genuine amount of embarrassment, the host completed a full round of apologies to the person, including a number of offers of monetary recompense for those who missed out.

I was lucky enough not to be one of them, but felt some level of sympathy for the Chief as he appeared to be truly upset about caught short in such a manner for the first time.

This can be better understood in context that Hina Cave has only re-opened in June 2008, after a 24-year hiatus as a cultural establishment in Tonga and the boss is currently very keen to keep his patrons happy.

The present owner (who just happens to be a Sydney resident) has put a serious amount of love into the project since the passing of his father, who was the previous owner and guardian of the site.

With the help of locals and some other novices, it is now back open to the public.

The Feast

The evening’s penultimate activity unfolds upon completion of the Feast, with the entire guest party retreating into Hina Cave for a stupendous display of Tongan dance and traditional music.

There is a male and female team of dancers, with the host leading the musical charge from the rear of the cave.

A combined dance is seated - male and female, followed up by a series of highly physical war dances (male) and more genteel dances of attraction (female); none of which were to be outclassed however by the spectacular male fire dances to conclude.

Various body parts (tongues, hands and feet) were set alight in the process to the complete rapture of the throng.

It really was impressive stuff and the sheer physical presence and skill of these fellows is astounding.

And moreover, I never felt as though any stage of the evening was a mere glossy tourist show.

Considering the performers are basically well-trained locals and not necessarily professional artists is even more credible.

Yes they are putting on a show, but it is staged to be shared with anyone who shows up; proof of this in the 100-strong crowd tonight, of which the demographic was around 75/25 – Tongans to tourists.

SUNDAY IN TONGA #1

Sunday is a sacred day of rest in Tonga.

All businesses close and everyone goes to church.

When in Tonga it is said, so I went along too.

I didn’t attend to pray or correct my sins or anything else. I didn’t even listen very much because I can’t understand Tongan.

The singing is really what makes it worthwhile and I would go so far as to say that my plane ticket has already paid for itself on the strength of it.

The sound is so full and saturated with the purest harmony, it is difficult to determine where it all actually generates from.

It appears to come from 2 or 3 groups towards the front of the congregation – of the 300 or so present this morning, it was maybe 50 or 60 creating the sound.

More singing, standing up, sitting down, a short but animated sermon form the priest and then singing some more.

Another hymn as the offertory commences, before finally shaking hands with those around me as warm Tongan wishes of peace are exchanged.

I may even come back for more of this next Sunday.

My suspicion is that God may be proud of all this.

If I were Him, I would be……

Straight from church then and over to the wharf for 30 minutes of rest, before the midday boat ride across to Pangaimotu Island.

Pangaimotu is apparently one of the better choices on a Sunday for those not involved with church or other community gatherings.

Only a 10 minute boat ride from Nuku’alofa, once ashore there is enough to keep one occupied for at least a few hours.

There is some respectable coral reef and even a shipwreck to mess around with.

Jumping from the bow, which sticks its nose as good as vertically out of the shallow basin seems to be the done thing amongst the locals.

My activity of preference however, was a self-guided circumnavigation at high tide.

Knee-deep wading alongside narrow sandy beaches and through bug-infested mangrove was in order as the weather closed in.

A full day of Saturday rain had so far left Sunday spare, but the drifting blackness over yonder was not set to be so forgiving.

By the time I returned to my private banana lounge, the worst of it may have come and gone as I settled in for some lazing about, generally away from the crowds at the bar.

The thick droplets of weather persisted as did the inevitable mosquito dance.

Sunlight desperately tried to squeak through the high-cloud cover, but as the horn sounded for the 3 o’clock boat return, I was disappointed and done.

Disappointed to have missed some snorkelling (no equipment was for hire and I don’t have my own) and the subsequent dwall of boredom that onset soon thereafter.

Boarding to Pangaimotu

Hiker in the swamp - Pangaimotu

High Tide - Pangaimotu

‘EUA

Pronounced “AYA-WAH” is a 2-hour ferry-ride (or else an 8-minute plane flight) out of Nuku’alofa harbour and 30 miles or so from mainland Tongatapu.

‘Eua is Tonga’s hiking hotspot and right now I’m the only tourist here.

This is as good as it gets – acres and acres of unspoiled tropical rainforest and caves and pools and beaches all to myself until the next boatload arrives on Thursday.

Presently, there is the side issue of a wedding party set down for tomorrow evening – I’m not exactly invited, however it has accounted for probably 89 of the 90 passengers on the trip over today and they are mostly all out of here by Friday morning.

I just need to cope with a few gossiping women and some excitable teenage girls for the next few days.

I will survive.

Arrival in 'Eua

Moment in the Sun - 'Eua

THE PRE-WEDDING

It has taken just under a week to get a belly full of kava and a dose of pink skin.

A little too much basking on the deserted Tufuvai Beach this morning has resulted in my suffering.

I know an Aussie should be wiser, but this tropical summer sun is more penetrating than even I am known to.

Low tide snorkeling was a failure even by my humble standards, so I somehow feel as though the pain is for not very much.

Tufuvai Beach

If there were to be some self-prescribed pain relief however, then perhaps tonight was it as the wedding party arrived for a night of pre-emptive indulgence, constituting a full-blown kava session for the men and some short but demonstrative shennanigans by the women.

With the women burning out well before acceptances, the men remained to sing and smoke and kava long into the small hours.

My kava constitution is frail at best - 16 years at last count since my previous Fijian imbibe - but I'm happy to have stayed solid for at least half a dozen bowls this evening.

In all seriousness, I am lucky to be here.

There are only about 2 weddings per year on 'Eua and my timing couldn't have been better for this one.

It appears to be going in true Tongan style, rich with food, drink, culture and festivity.

If this is the warm-up, tomorrow could be one for the record.

Pre-Wedding

Party with the ladies

THE BIG DAY + TAKI’S WEATHER REPORT

Sitting about the other night chewing the fat (a lot of this goes on around here) with Taki, Commandeer of the Hideaway, which is my lodging of choice on ‘Eua.

Taki is a big, bald man with a big, bold laugh and has spent some time, years in fact, living in Sydney and elsewhere throughout Australia, so we have had some things to discuss.

We also share the heartfelt desire to see the nation of Tonga (‘Eua in particular) protected in the years to come from the voracious cancer of tourism.

Facts are that tourism probably needs Tonga more than Tonga needs tourism and even though far from an economic powerhouse, it is still a destination yet to be pillaged by the mainstream tourist crush.

This is the very reason people who are interested enough should choose to come here before the inevitable occurs.

In the case of ‘Eua, its national park would not currently cover ¼ of the island’s total area so there must be a major case for creating a national park of the entire island, given that most of it is reef fringed virgin rainforest.

Taki is a man who takes his cause seriously enough and lobbies his own government, largely without success.

Not in his lifetime, he says, seeing himself more of a cog in the process of conservation – one who must pass the baton to the next generation as the need demands.

Not shy of a weather prediction either, as a cooling ocean breeze increasingly punctuated our conversation, Taki began sensing the likelihood of a following storm, of which the offshore gusts are often indicative…..

Meanwhile, there has been a wedding in town.

Once or twice a year at most it takes place on ‘Eua, as I have previously alluded.

Proceedings were set down Thursday morning, 10 am and I had no particular inkling of actually being there.

The women and families had retired early from the prior evening’s celebration, although there must have been some doubt as to whether the hardcore Kavaists were capable of backing up.

I not being of either persuasion had actually planned some cave spotting yesterday as a means of biding the daytime hours.

My holiday schedule is largely void of urgency about anything meaning that I am generally glad to be visiting a part of the world that sanctions this philosophy for the greater good.

This said, a wedding is a wedding and the majority must mobilise at some organised juncture no matter where it takes place.

The majority so mobilised yesterday at an appropriate hour, which also happened to synchronise with me dragging my lazy arse out of bed.

And no more than 10 minutes hence, I was being whisked off with nothing but a camera in my hand, amidst a convoy of honking car horns and other crazy locals through but one of a hundred deluges in the past 48 hours.

It seems Taki knew best.

First stop was a small office in the town; bride and groom checking in to visit what could be presumed to be a registrar of sorts – a book was signed and vows may have been exchanged in privacy.

A few more honking horns later as the party travelled some distance uphill to the church with the best view in Tonga and this is where the wedding was to take place.

Traditional Tongan dress was the order – this, despite me being resplendent in shorts and a black T-shirt.

Traditional dress and a traditional ceremony – emotionally charged and full of huge singing, happy tidings and family gatherings.

Down the aisle

Signing his life away

Family Portrait

Groom & Bride

Happy Days

The ceremony however was not yet inclusive of the Feast, which was to be held at another location.

The Feast is as traditional as everything else that had gone before on this stormy day.

Catering such an event stops short of becoming an art form – the basic philosophy is for every 100 people present, there should be enough for 500.

This seems to be the gist anyway.

More singing, dancing and a traditional Kava ceremony before the commencement of the Feast, in which the bride is presented with a bowl of Kava by her groom and permitted to consume it for possibly the only time ever (women are traditionally prohibited from drinking Kava in most Polynesian cultures).

In all the kerfuffle, I had missed any semblance of a breakfast, so by 1 pm I was kind of glad the Feast was ready to begin.

Any opportunity to eat one’s self rancid is a good opportunity by me and I did not restrain.

There was always going to be enough for today and tomorrow and maybe a few more after this, even if everybody present had twice their share.

The day concluded with dancing and some extended speeches by bride, groom and celebrant – highlighted with deep sobbing by all concerned.

Tears began competing with weather outside and I almost went myself at one time or another.

It was plainly a relief when it all came to an end and my belly was full, along with my camera’s memory card.