UOLEVA PT.2
Mosquitoes bite frequently and hard on Uoleva.
The degree of pain is somehow greater than elsewhere in the Kingdom, in addition to stock standard risks of contractible nasties such as Dengue Fever and Malaria.
With my personal collection of Tongan mozzie attacks now hundred-numbering, I am yet to be stricken by anything worse than a case of the metaphorical shits, although one should never become too far ahead of oneself…..
A circumnavigation of Uoleva is an expedition of 2-hours minimum duration, or else one can take several days if it pleases one to do so.
On a hot and glaring Thursday morning last, I lacquered on a rather large quantity of sunscreen and set out for however long it was to take.
I elected to venture clockwise – tailing the sun if you will, in lieu of having it follow me for the entire round trip.
By doing it this way, there was also to be an advantageous windward-side breeze as I made my way around.
Palangi on the beach
The northern-most tip of Uoleva is the narrowest of points and not only functions as a island turnaround but also a meeting place of sorts, as travellers either depart or arrive from the shallow 2 km tidal crossing between Uoleva and Lifuka.
Tongans and Palangi alike make the trip by foot, or often enough on horseback which also saves a 50 Pa’anga (US$25) round trip by boat.
A gusting tailwind shoved me along the beach for most of the 5 km southbound tramp as I regularly paused for gulps of water and a sunscreen boost as the UV index metered way beyond extreme.
Reflective glare inflicts as much if not even greater damage than that from directly above, so I felt it necessary to cover all my undersides in addition, from the double-barrel assault of bleached white sand and the blindingly incandescent water which I can only relate as the most intense hue of translucent turquoise.
Seaside artefact3½ hours hence, I rounded the southern most point and the familiar western beach strip curved out before me, a strongish sou-westerly also carrying with it an ever-welcome scent of cooking food.
I’ve said it before, but timing is everything and it seems my arrival could not have been better timed to join in the lunch break at fledgling “Serenity Bay Resort”.
Patti and helper had knocked up a right royal Palangi feast of chicken curry for not only themselves and the working throng of Tongan boys but as it also now happened, myself.
“Serenity Bay” is set to be the 3rd accommodation option on Uoleva Island.
Patti’s plan of attack is not so much to compete with the other established budget icons on the island – Captain Cook’s and Daiana’s, but offer tourists more of a spiritual treat in tropical paradise, without blowing budgets to the moon and beyond.
From what I have seen, it has the potential to be a very enticing and rewarding place - if she does it right from here, Patti will have done a marvellous job in creating and selling her unique dream.
A small scattering of custom built Balinese fales populate the jungle patch from one side of the narrow island to other - either for singles, or the more romantic doubles, which face onto the windward-side sunrise beach.
The centrally located “Bounty Bar” fale is the main cooking, drinking and socialising nest, directly overlooking the calmer leeward sunset beach.
An adjacent Tongan fale is the designated massage tent, where Patti will soothe the pain after action packed high-season days of whale-watching, scuba diving, snorkelling or just general amounts of beachcombing.
Feng Shui has been afforded the highest of offices at “Serenity Bay” and it deserves to achieve a special place in the itineraries of South Pacific travellers in the years ahead.
VIVA VAVA’U
There would have been little to prevent me burning another week in the untouchable Shangri-La of Uoleva; however a Friday morning return to Lifuka had to be for my lunchtime flight to Vava’u on Saturday.
Having already paid my way, Langi Langi happily welcomed me back to her fold in Pangai for another 24 hours as the final section of my Tongan sabbatical approached.
The Vava’u archipelago lies 100+ km and a 20-minute flight north of Ha’apai.
Neiafu is the commercial centre of Vava’u and is arguably tourist central in the Kingdom of Tonga.
And history will now dictate that a couple of recent fires have fundamentally altered the townscape of Neiafu.
The latest, dated 17 December 2008 was started by some young boys burning out a beehive in the midst of a windy summer day - not only were the bees accounted for, but half-a-dozen or so local businesses that also happened to be spiritual icons of the town.
The charred and razed skeletons of what once was pre-empt what are now clear and unobstructed views of Port of Refuge and the town jetty.
Neiafu new town vista
When it’s not on fire, watersport-centric activities regularly abound in Vava’u and it is absolutely my preference to be here in the low-season.
Not only would high-season crowds cripple my spirits but harshly spiked prices would be even more effective in diverting my energies and travel funds elsewhere.
Whale-watching is the #1 drawcard during the good days and at all other times, it is a must-stop for nautical types as they chart their expansive (and often expensive) adventures through the South Pacific and beyond.
Many have stopped and stayed over the years – if not marrying directly into the local population, unhesitatingly nominating Vava’u as their place in the sun.
The hilly topography of Vava’u is quite obviously different from anywhere else in the Kingdom (‘Eua excepted) with myriad waterways and various island groups making it a haven for plain sailing and other watery fun.
I am yet to register a snorkelling session of any quality on this particular trip and despite my days in Tonga now counting down quite rapidly, my hope has not exasperated.
For the time being though, I am lodging at the Austongian “Port Wine Guest House” run by Aussie ex-pats Maryanne, her husband Tai, their Melbourne-raised kids and some 4 generations of Tai’s extended Tongan family.
Relaxing and not doing very much are currently driving my agenda more than anything else.
There was however, the side-show of a post-church home cooked Sunday lobster feast yesterday and yet another lined up for Wednesday.
After ChurchMY FIRST EARTHQUAKE + A LITTLE MORE WIND AND RAIN…..
Tuesday evening: A 1000 millibar tropical depression around 200 miles northwest of Vava’u rang out official cyclone warnings across radio and VHF channels around the nation at 6 pm.
Those in the know usually reserve full blown panic for when things drop below 1000 and with forecast wind speeds between 35 and 45 knots, it was more than likely just another storm.
Still, the locals take no chances and there is a certain protocol to be regarded.
Windows are boarded and anything that should be tied down or removed from the danger zone is.
Just in case.
The excitement of my first potential cyclone was not to be trumped however, by my first real earthquake at around 1 am Monday morning.
Truth be told, it was no more than a couple of short, sharp quivers but when the room shakes like this I wasn’t about to be dreaming it…..
AUSTRALIA DAY, POST-CYCLONE & JUST ANOTHER FEAST…..
Waking on Wednesday morning, it was difficult to figure out what all the fuss was about.
The tropical cyclone warning was no more than just that and a little extra wind and rain aside there really was nothing to it.
Still, things can be worse and it is often prudent to be grateful for odd mercies as they occur.
As is the Tongan way, there may be no better way to celebrate such a non-event than throwing on another Feast.
A Feast with some backyard cricket added in for tidy measure, also as something of a belated shindig for Australia Day.
January 26 is the designated national day of Australia and something I am normally loathed to acknowledge.
Gatherings around the continent summon Nationalistic fervour and flag waving of disturbing frequency as tuneless and stale anthems are limply regurgitated by well meaning folk with the absolute best intentions in their hearts.
This of course, accompanied by thousand-fold barbeques, sausage sizzles, spontaneous games of cricket (beach, backyard and otherwise) and random piss-ups as the majority strive to squeeze maximum advantage from the national summer holiday in the best way they know how.
To be fair, I think it is important for countries to celebrate a national day in some way or other – it just doesn’t mean I personally sanction what is basically another excuse to drink beer in the hot sun and start proclaiming loudly and often that Australia is the greatest country in the world.
To be even fairer, the best possible place to be for any Australia Day carry-on is overseas and that is where I am right now.
The more truthful reason for today’s January 28 Feast is to farewell a Port Wine resident Aussie Palangi named Stephen – a mute fellow and good friend of my hosts, who leaves Vava’u tomorrow and is returning to Australia next Monday on the same flight as myself.
Stephen himself controlled the late afternoon barbeque – slow cooking chicken, sausages and Sipi (the greatly maligned Tongan delicacy also known as mutton flaps) to a high degree of perfection.
Beer and wine flowed amongst the grown-ups as the kids took care of the cricket.
Howzat....
Palangi Steve & grinning Tai
Now, I would never regularly lay claim to pork extraction of any kind but these are exceptional circumstances.
The fresh porker is a Tongan delicacy of royal proportions, most often straight out of the yard or back paddock and no more recently than same afternoon.
Contrary to local custom, I personally stop short of chowing down the bones, the salt-laden crackers and other cartlidge or fat-based morsels.
Instead, my way is to savour the tender flesh, whilst saving my fix of entertainment by watching the locals crunch down everything else on offer…..
