WEEK 5

R & R IN VAVA'U

I cannot see the point in going on holiday and flattening yourself out with doing stuff like there is no likelihood of a tomorrow.

This is where I really draw the line between hardcore "travelling" and taking vacation.

So with consecutive days of indifferent weather this week in Vava'u, there has been no excuse for not resting up and I have been quite happy to do so. Even with clearer weather the final 2 days, I've just taken it easy.

My hosts at Port Wine have eagerly assisted my sloth by providing a fertile aestheitc within the quiet, breezy grounds of their modest quarters.

The single exception to all this was Thursday afternoon as I set out to conquer the might of nearby Mount Talau. Towering all of 131 metres above Neiafu and the Port of Refuge, Mount Talau can be reached by a concentrated upwards stroll through some western back villages, eventually linking with the muddy tracks that lead into the National Park and up the side of the mountain.

The final section of the track is rope assisted and despite some slippery sections, it was much closer to a child's birthday party in comparison to my Fangatave Caves trek some 3 weeks previously.

Views on offer from the top are impressive and it is also possible to hike around to the western side for a more intimate sunset experience at the appropriate time of evening.

On top of Talau

When not scaling Tonga's natural monoliths, my little routine has involved lots of reading and sleeping and the odd computer game during the day and hitting the town at night.

Neiafu is blessed with some fine culinary establishments and pretty much all have either water frontage or blue ribbon views, so why not sample some offerings?

"Mango", "Mermaids" and "The Dancing Rooster" have all been granted a generous quota of my time and travel funds and I may still miss out on "Aquarium", "Ciao", "Compass Rose" and "Tongan Bob's".

"The Dancing Rooster" has my endorsement for food honours - the Swiss chef Gunther has surely established Tonga's most original and appetising menu in the Palangi food stakes.

Baked Mahimahi fillet in some exotic Coconutty, Bananary, Ginger-type tropical sauce (rice and salad inclusive) has my vote for feed of the week so far, despite a serious challenge from the homemade dumplings of lobster tortellini and lashings of brandy sauce earlier this evening

"Mermaids" however is my choice for an after dinner ale or 2 and a cosy place to get down and a little incestuous with the travelling scene of Neiafu.

A rare oppotunity for this notorious loner to get in touch with his inner social butterfly and I admit to the experience being quite refreshing.

Smatterings of worldly ex-pat locals of a nautical bent, international volunteers , US Peace Corps workers, local Tongans and Palangi travellers create the evening dynamic around the "Mermaids" bar and grill.

Heavy conditions sadly, have offered stifled sunsets for most evenings this week but there may be no better place to be when it is all working.....

Lucky serves up another Ikale @ Mermaids

THE FINAL FLIGHT

My time in Tonga has now come to an end and my flight to Sydney is scheduled for today, Monday 2 February.

I have been resting for the past 48 hours in Tongatapu after returning from Vava'u on Saturday.

Toni's Guest House has once more granted me sleeping space for the final 2 evenings, as I have caught up with puppy news, cracked a few more coconuts, lounged about in front of the movie channel and also attended my final church service this time around.

A 2-hour Sunday morning marathon was in order and yet another fine round of singing as the locals gathered in numbers for what I believe was a Catholic service.

Catholic Falelotu - Tofoa village

The Tongan church experience has surely been one of my fondest memories of the Kingdom.

Not that I have converted to some denomination or other or even that I have decided to believe in God.

It is just such a nice experience to share in this level of spirituality with a people to whom this has such great importance.

The singing is fantastical of a truly world-class calibre and there is something of great relevance and cultural permanence in the way that the Tongans embrace their faith as one.

Admittedly, religious diversity is not really of the agenda but the numerous denominations do seem to co-exist in remarkable harmony and this is not necessarily a given either here or in other parts of the world.

Post service, a lovely fellow by the name of George greeted me warmly and in appreciatiation of my presence offered me a ride back home in his SUV in lieu of a 15-minute hike in the midday heat.

Rumbling back to Toni's along the deeply potholed sinuses that are the backblock warrens of Tofoa village was a new experience for George, who told me he had never seen this part of town before, in all his years.

As we bounced along, George was palpably curious as to why a lonesome Palangi like me should be in church on Sunday and voiced his approval as I revealed details of my month-long Tongan expedition. He was equally curious to know the nature of my faith and short of lying, I announced that I wasn't really anything.

"So long as you believe in the Lord Jesus Christ", George added, his sense of excitement barely stopped short of infecting me.

Of course, I was deeply appreciative of the lift and equally glad to have provided an old man with a new experience.

Malo aupito George.

Flying Pacific Blue

Farewell to the Kingdom